Harmonium Tours Southern France
A group of 45 singers joined by several friends and family spent ten summer days delighting French audiences with works ranging from Leonard Bernstein’s French choruses to American spirituals to new compositions celebrating the 250th anniversary of the Declaration of Independence. Performing in Aix-en-Provence, Albi, Frons, and Toulouse, we Americans delighted in the animated and joyful response of the audiences, the allure of the French countryside, the marvelous food and wine, and the treasured time spent together as chorus friends and family.
Our concerts always closed with the Zimbabwean song Njalo (“Always”) sung in both English and French. A favorite tour memory from Bob Richton, husband of long-time soprano Diane, was watching the audience join in the song’s hand motions at the concert in Frons, a small village where we sang it together with a French choir. Soprano Linda Clark was instrumental in arranging the concert in Frons. She writes: “Foremost on this trip was a dream actually coming true: our long-time friend Jean escorting us into his rural village, singing in the packed local church, sharing the performance with another choir’s enthralling program, then two encores demanded by the synchronized clapping, the reception, picnic dinner, and social time together, and finally the cell phone light show that led our departing bus from that precious town.” The Frons concert was indeed a highlight for everyone, hosts and guests alike.
Kristen and Tom Siebenhuhner, former members, write: “It’s absolutely wonderful to have the opportunity to sing again with Harmonium, and always a pleasure to sing Anne’s repertoire. Traveling with fellow musicians affords a connection that can’t be replicated in any other travel experience: whether sightseeing, sharing a meal, or singing a round on the bus as we travel to our next destination. The locations are part of the reason we love to tour with Harmonium, but honestly the best part is and always has been, the people and the music making.”
Alto Lizzie Engelberth describes the town of Albi, a favorite spot for many. “My favorite memory is not a single moment, but all of the free time wandering around medieval Albi…meandering along the narrow streets and the river, poking our heads into fascinating little shops (the children’s bookstore! the local artisans! the tea shop! the cat cafe/bookshop! the watch store!), soaking in the medieval architecture and history, and of course running across Harmonium friends at random cafes and spots around town. That whole time felt sun-drenched and magical.”
Visits to Arles and Carcassonne were also among the group favorites. Soprano Ginny Johnston writes: “Our stop in Arles was very special, particularly seeing the connection to Vincent Van Gogh. Several of us had lunch right next to the famous cafe (now closed) that Van Gogh portrayed in one of his most famous paintings—and it looks exactly the same!
Diane Richton really enjoyed the day in Carcassonne: “My first peek at buildings from the 12th to 14th centuries was especially exciting because, as our group walked towards the entrance, we passed a statue of a cyclist to mark the path of the Tour de France. The medieval construction was fun to explore, the views from the ramparts were stunning, and seeing the Pyrenees was amazing and unexpected. Seven of us enjoyed a delicious lunch together. I’ve eaten cassoulet in the US and Canada many times but in Carcassonne, we were presented with the largest single serving of cassoulet I’ve ever seen!”
As you would imagine, the French food topped several favorites lists. “Ooh la la,” writes soprano Martha Domonkos. “Who can forget the bountiful breakfasts with the fresh squeezed orange juice, the best quiche I’ve ever had in my life, and consuming so many delicacies of French cuisine? I had to pinch myself that first morning when we were eating breakfast beside the Roman ruins and hearing the cathedral bells.” Non-singer friend of Harmonium Becky Moody adds: “Dinner at the Rick Steves’ recommended cheese place in Aix-en-Provence with Alyssa, Lizzy, Saira, Eric, Molly, Jackie R., and Linda—a truly intergenerational experience that makes Harmonium tours so special.”
Tours in our host cities provided not only fascinating history, fantastic art, and magnificent churches but also random chances to sing in the streets. Soprano Margaret Persing shares the magical moment on the steps of the Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence. “We sang three pieces, and in the middle of the last piece the church bells started ringing. That was a moment!”
But the absolute best part? “The concerts!” writes Ginny Johnston. “In addition to the gorgeous music-making and sharing with such enthusiastic audiences, I loved how the audience members were so “into” Anne speaking French to them.” Anne concurs: “My favorite part of tour was a surprise to me—speaking French to the audience. After doing a lot of work on online notes with a QR code, I realized at the first concert that the audience was not looking at that at all, and I really wanted to give them some insight into what each piece was, and why we brought it with us. I really didn’t have time to worry about my French (and I hadn’t prepared) but they were so receptive and kept smiling at me and helping me. As I explained how we had commissioned Mark Miller to write a piece using the words of the Marquis de Lafayette especially for this tour, I went on to explain that Song of the Citizens was about how we must all respect the constitution. Every time I got to “respecter la Constitution” I got a huge response from the liberty-loving French audiences!”
One thing that has never happened on a Harmonium tour before: tenor Lucas Bergen proposed to his girlfriend soprano Taylor Bailey on the banks of the Garonne River in Toulouse, complete with ring and hidden photographer! They had to move slightly farther downriver than planned due to a water-rugby tournament! Congratulations!
To sum it all up: Sharing music with engaged audiences; being together with friends old and new; enjoying fabulous food, wine, locations, and especially a swimming pool on hot afternoons; learning about a country as beautiful, historic, and varied as France; and seeing our own country through another lens. I bet you all can’t wait to sign up for the next Harmonium tour!
By Valerie Davia (former alto, returned for tour),
with thanks to those who emailed memories, and very special thanks to our Tour Leader in Chief Rachel Clark.